Friday, November 09, 2012

A Little Detour to The Middle Ages




Several times today ( and in fact on this whole journey) it felt as if we had stepped back many centuries. People are living essentially the same way they have since ancient times. They are close to the land. They build everything themselves from what is at hand. They use ancient tools and methods. Their lives are circumscribed to the immediate area where they live. Here are a few pictures from the road today that struck me that way!




















Travel Day

Early morning at Agra Station, trying to catch the 8:11 train towards Bhopal.





Our carry-on bags piled up.





Some trains for Desmond.


Our travel car.


Crowds on platform.


A baby traveler, with kohl painted eyes.



Porters loading up our luggage.


People waiting on station platform at Jhansi.


OAT rep waiting for us.


Random street scenes. Barbershop= 1 chair, 1 mirror, 1 razor.


Get a degree here.


Market crowd.



Herd of cows shares the highway.


Village crossroad.



Study in colors.


Being greeted with marigolds at lunch stop.


Village women.



Where Luxury has No End.


Typical truck, decorated to the max.


Village scene.


Roadside conversation. We traveled all day, by train and then bus, to Khajurajo, through many villages and small towns and farmlands. Fascinating!

The Rest of the Day




Well our Thursday morning was all about visiting the Taj Mahal. We were there at sunrise. It was magnificent, as expected, and then we came back to the hotel for a late breakfast. This morning we had a local speciality, poori, topped with a vegetable curry called sambhal. The poori are delicate, puffy dumplings, fried, and SO delicious. Hade I mentioned that the food in India is heavenly good, surprisingly varied, and abundant??! And spicy!



In the early afternoon we visited the Agra Fort, a huge complex (2 miles in circumference) of open plazas, labyrinthine rooms, sleeping pavilions. All designed by Iranian architects in the 1500's and delicately decorated with carved stone and tile work. It was home to several Mughal rulers and still mostly intact.









Later we visited the so-called Moonlight Garden directly across the river from the Taj and a favorite viewing spot of the back side if that monument. It was a lovely oasis in Agra which seemed more gritty, dirty, and crowded than anywhere else we have been. Not a fun town and definitely did not invite strolling around through the streets!








We stopped for dinner at a delightful small vegetarian place where the food was yummy and they even gave us directions on how to eat it!










Location:Agra, India

Wednesday, November 07, 2012

No Words for This



















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Location:Taj Mahal, Agra, India

Moving on, and Celebrating!






Wednesday, Nov. 6, election day in the US, and we are on pins and needles. No Internet since yesterday morning, nerve -wracking!

We started our day with a rousing game of cricket at the camp, playing with the camp staff! Cricket is really the National game of India, thanks to the Brits, and it was great to get some exercise before setting off on our journey, and fun to learn a little about that game.

In the nearby village of Abhaneri we lurched to a halt when we saw a potter working with a wheel on the side of the road. He was making tiny pots and bowls and even let Michele work the wheel for awhile.
















And we stopped again to watch some architectural stone carvers work with stencils and small, sharp chisels to make intricate designs on stone beams.
We visited a 900 year old "step well", an amazing structure that will soon become a World Heritage Site, but now sits unnoticed in this hidden-away village. It was built to secure a water-system for a maharaja, with astonishing deep triangular step stones locking the 4 support walls into place.








We also visited an old Hindu Temple with lovely stone carvings, nearly all defaced by Muslims centuries ago.








Now we are taking a long, scenic drive to Agra and the Taj Mahal ( tomottow) . Krish has been regaling us with stories of Shah Jehan and the Mughals. Very relaxed. And today my cold is gone!




I never tire of looking at rural India, with so much vibrant life happening along the edges of the road: people bathing with buckets and rags, cows, goats, wild pigs, water buffalo sauntering around and crossing leisurely through traffic. Women in bright colored saris dot the fields, flailing at the earth with ancient-looking hand tools. Others kneel near the highway shaping cow-patties into flattened disks like frisbees and lining them up along any concrete or asphalt surface to dry in the sun for use as fuel.




Truckloads of people go by, all crammed in like sardines. Women with shining brass pails bring water to the animals. Stray dogs sleep through the day, seemingly wherever they fall. I think dogs lives are hard. We see people sleeping on bench-like beds outside their shelters, and children running naked. No need for diapers here!




Later: just checked onto another pretty fancy hotel. Just heard that Obama was re-elected! We are so relieved. Big dinner here tonite and we'll be celebrating, then Taj at sunrise in the morning. This is all a dream-come-true, only better than I dreamed it!




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